Empathy's generic TLJ Junior Controller

[tenebris]

So Its been a long time coming and after finishing my Resistance officer for MCM, I starting patterning this. I'm doing the version with the shoulder patch.







Proposed standard:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/ ... p?t=102942

Jacket is Cotton Lawn, any basic plain nautral cotton would work. The fabric we are suggesting is kona cotton in honey. Its a really tricky colour. (I'm currently working on the ritt dye recipes.......)










https://emmasfabricstudio.co.uk/collect ... olid-honey?
variant=15242588867

Basic Patterning. I'm going to do some quilting samples later.






Trousers are tobbaco brown sanded twill, I have the block from my TFA junior controller. Anya has since created a good guide for the controller trousers.











Glie 44



Crow props Poe boots, you can still get a few sizes from po-zu...they also have an outlet on ebay its worth a look.

https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/products?search=poe



Belt

Buckle Tandy leather:
https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/ ... 3-4-4-4-cm

Blank leather world, 2inch
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/leatherworld ... 1438.l2754

Cut out section for the belt to sit flush to the buckle, glued with eco-flo

[tenebris]

So quilting:

Links on garment quilting, some good tips:

https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2019/02 ... r-garments

http://blog.mccall.com/2015/12/08/tips- ... -garments/

I may be driving myself slightly nuts with the measurements. Proposed CRL says 1/2 and inch..........I think the sleeves look like 1/2 an inch, but the body looks more like a cm (I may have just been looking at it waaay to long?? also I'm wondering if some of these are different jackets). Excuse my wobbly un-matching lines






Single layer batting at 1/2 inch:


Single layer batting at 1cm:


Double batting samples 1/2 on the left, 1cm on the right.




single layer batting with light calico backing:

[BigFatCat]

10mm looks better than 12.5mm to my eye.

[tenebris]

So much u'mmimg and hmmmm'ing about construction. On reflection, I think perhaps 2 layers of fabric, with batting in between. Then binding the seams.......I didn't dye enough, so I'm using super light weight calico to back, then lining.

I dyed for like 2 days and weathered the fabric. I'm at the point where I can't do much more.

[tenebris]

So looking at more pics of the generics I'm thinking ..........Actually they all look a bit different and a bit uneven. Some of the generics def look like smaller spacing.

[tenebris]

So 1cm it is........All remarked and ready to go.

[Jerrick Sunrunner]

Nice work Empathy! This looks like some really great work

[tenebris]

So I want to do the halo type braid the lady has in the pic above........Its been a long time since I did hair stuff so I can't remember any of the colour codes or anything...... So I'm going to pop into the shop in Brighton that does braid ext and see if i can match my hair. Otherwise I shall have to go to cyberlocks or something.

I looked for tutorials and Jen Eyres video on how to do hoth hair with extensions is really good.

https://www.facebook.com/JenEyreCosplay ... 806889998/

[Naberrie]

This looks like it’s coming along great Empathy! Endlessly amazed with the amount of research you give all your costumes, and the trialing takes dedication. The braid will look really cool too! Can’t wait to see you clear this one, and watch it come along. best of luck with it! :+)x

[tenebris]

Thanks Beth, its been a bit of a journey this one, The SA fabric is a nightmare....to dye, to sew, to pin. Its good in that you just need one layer, but I think there are easier cottons to work with.

I wanted to do the patch on the left arm version, but I think I've also found a couple of ref's proving some controllers don't have any markings.

The lady on the far left side appears a few time and she has no front or left arm red rebel print.

[Naberrie]

ahhh this looks so fantastic! i honestly am so in love with the colour of yours. Can’t wait to see it finished :)

[BigFatCat]

(Pull pin)

Are you sure it's the right yellow?

(Run away)

[dutchal74]

Looks like it's coming together nicely.


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[tenebris]

(Pull pin)

Are you sure it's the right yellow?

(Run away)

You can help me re-dye if it's not

Thanks Alan :)

[tenebris]

So I'm putting my trousers together, here's how I did the knee pads. I left the Seam allowance quite large, as it looks to be quite visible on the ref.

Knee patches

First I make a template of my knee pad in card (final shape and size with no seam allowance).

Then I add 2cm Seam allowance all the way round and use that to cut my fabric.

I stitch in a long stitch (5 on my machine) at aprrox 1.5cm ish from the edge all the way round, then again at about 1cm....its doesn't have to be neat, the rows just can't touch.....leave the ends long and don't back-stitch at either end, as you will be gathering the fabric.

Put the card in the center of the stitching and pull on 1 of the threads of the outer stitching and feed the fabric round so it evenly starts to gather, you can pull on the same thread from the other end, then gently do the same on the other line.

Then gently press from the wrong side with a press cloth and turn over and press from the right side. Once the shape has taken, carefully take the card out and press again. Trim some excess of the threads.









Patch Pockets

The patch pockets are unusual in that they over lap at the side seams. I top-stitched them partially while the pattern piece was flat and left it un-stitched at the side seams to allow me to join the front of the trousers to the back and top-stitch the seam detail before attaching, I just pinned it out of the way .