Brad Senior Officer A WIP
Lots of people use the BDU jackets, these need to be adjusted by taking off the elbow patches, cuff tabs, adjusting the collar and the front. Then adding the yellow ‘yoke’
lay tracing paper on top of the yoke section, tracing the shape of the jacket and how deep you want the yoke, then you add seam allowance to the tracing, this gives you your pattern. Then you cut it out of kona, turn the seam allowance edges under and press with and iron, you can then pin it onto the jacket and topstitch it down.
The twill version is the one to aim for as the SA jackets are twill.
https://www.rothco.com/product/rothco-b ... will-solid
In the UK we have the teesar BDU:
https://www.military1st.co.uk/11837004- ... khaki.html
People use Kona honey for the yoke, its available widely, if you have problems getting some, you can always contact the detachment staff.
https://plushaddict.co.uk/robert-kaufma ... honey.html
I started with Butterick Sewing Pattern 6534, it’s a unisex that comes in 2 sizes. – I think the XL-XXL might cover a larger bust as even the small was pretty good for a unisex.
If you are very petite/slim you are better going with a lady’s pattern. I’ve not made it up, but something like Simplicity 4789
https://www.minerva.com/mp/1012719/butt ... ttern-6534
I made a few adjustments: I took a little off the sleeves so they were not quite so wide at the bottom, shortened it and made the facing 1cm wider and separate – however the only thing you really need to do is shorten it. There’s a bit of gather in the top of the sleeve, my fabric was quite thick, so it was tricky to get it completely smooth, next time I’d take a little of the sleeve cap out.
I always make a mock up in cheap fabric, old bedsheets or calico – it also means you can draw on your toile so you can get the proportions of the pockets and yoke right.
I make up the basic pattern in calico, ask my partner to put it on and then start to pencil in where I want everything, usually I pick a reference point for example the rank badge, to work out the size of everything ie the yoke is 3 rank badges high, this space is 1 and half rank badges high, it means then everything is aprox in proportion. I then lay it flat and straighten the marks with a ruler and use the measurements to make the pocket pattern.
The pockets are really simple to make up, the top two pockets only have a gusset on the bottom and outter edge. The bottom pockets are fully gusseted.
Here are my pattern pieces
Top pocket, I basic folded down one side, leaving 1cm of seam allowance so that’s the bit that stitches directly to the jacket with no gusset:
Bottom pocket :
For the flap I use the original measurement for the pocket then add a few mm each side. I work out how deep I want it and make a rectangle, remembering that the pocket sits approx. 2cm higher than the main pocket. Then added seam allowence all the way round.
I’ll add a step by step of the pocket construction
Pocket tutorial, to give a idea of how cargo pockets are constructed:
I Start by marking where I want the yoke to finish on both my front and back pieces. Then trace the top section, adding seam allowance only to the bottom edge. Cut it out and then you can use the pattern piece to cut out the kona .
Now on your main pattern pieces in fabric, mark the same line in chalk.
also mark the bottom edge of seam allowance on the inside of the kona yoke pieces.
Then pin it and stich along that line.
Then flip it up and press, you can now topstitch the yoke with brown thread and make up the rest of the jacket follow wing the instructions.
Fabric- khaki/beige/tan is a bit of a nightmare fabric to photograph *crys* – it looks pink a lot of the time. It also takes on quite different colours in different lights. We do see it looking a bit pink onscreen in RO.
In the OT these jackets are seen as , khaki with yellow undertones and beigy-pinky brown.
Straight up khaki with the right undertone has been quite difficult to find here, so I dyed my own. The kobe twill is a little drapey, but might be ok, the fineline was too thin. The Ventana was a bit textured. . The sand kobe looks good till you take photos outside and next to the yellow then it looks almost white.
I used medium- heavy poly -cotton twill 35 cotton/ 65 poly and dyed it with rit dye All Purpose it was £4 a meter from fabricland, you can get the same sort of twill most fabric shops.
Do feel free to use my research as a base and improve it. It looks different in every photo.
The first thing I want to make clear is that the knee pads are OPTIONAL. Each knee pad also has its own pocket type - for those who are wanting to be super accurate. Officers are seen with tan, khaki and brown
From what we can work out, here are 3 types of knee pads
pleated horizontal -
Vertical quilting as seen on: Corporal Maddel, Lieutenant Sefla, General Draven, Private Basteren
This is vertical stitching.
Pocket - Large rectangle pocket with flap, pocket has 2 pleats and half a gusset, pocket flap has corners removed.
Grid quilting as seen on: Private Calfor, Corporal tonic, private tenzigo weems
This is a 'grid' of 12 sections, 3 horizontal stitch lines and 4 vertical stitch lines, the 4 vertical are in pairs .
Pocket - rectangle cargo pocket with flap, pocket has 1 inverted box pleat and is gusseted, pocket flap is rectangle.
Pleated quilting as seen on: private kappehl, Pao
These are NOT just horizontal stitching; they are 3 separate padded sections with 2 inverted pleats. The backs of the knees have closely spaced horizontal stitching.
Pocket- I *think * Rectangle cargo pocket, slightly rounded at the bottom edges with flap, pocket is plain, pocket flap has slightly rounded edges.
Patricia’s WIP here:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/ ... p?t=113688
Christian’s WIP is here:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/ ... p?t=103281
I’m pretty sure Rebel base have made the Pao style trousers in the past, you would need to contact them:
https://www.facebook.com/Rebelbase-crea ... 6101345740
These rothco ones have the 2 knife pleats in the pockets and the knee sections, you would just need to put a square of quilt batting inside, pin it and stitch the vertical lines on the outside. You may need to unpick the small pleat in the knee?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rothco-Relaxed ... th=1&psc=1
Using 2 pairs:
I wrote a tutorial for making up pockets from the fabric of one pair of trousers and adding them to another pair of trousers – this is good if you have 2 pairs of plain trousers or chinos.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nObC7l ... sp=sharing
I brought 2 pairs of combats and used the second pair for the belt loops and the knee pads, I also tea dyed them for 8 hours with approx. 40 cheap teabags, because they were not quite a dark enough tan.
I unpicked the original pleat at the bottom and the top, ironed the pocket and re- pressed it so the pocket would have the 1 inverted pleat which is accurate for the ‘grid’ knees, I then stitched it back down with a thread that was close to the original stitching.
Then I worked out where I wanted my knee pad to start from and finish at on the main trousers and marked it in tailors chalk.
I measured that and cut a piece from the fabric that was the right size and added some seam allowed either side – I did this with a fashion ruler/ pattern master.
I then laid this over the marks on the trousers and marked the edges of the trouser seams in chalk and added some seam allowance, trimming any excess. – now I have my knee pad section
I measured the pocket and divided it up first with little marks and used a ruler to join them to create the grid pattern.
I cut my batting/wadding/padding to a little bigger than my knee pad, and pinned it to the back of the kneepad. Then I topstitched my grid patten on. I removed the batting in the seam allowance and lightly pressed it with the iron.
Then I pressed my seam allowance towards the middle of the pocket – take care you don’t melt the batting, you could use a scrap of fabric over it.
I then lined up one side of the knee pad with the trouser seam and pinned it and stitched.
Then we flip the knee pad over and press the seam we just stitched.
Now I pin the the top and bottom edges of the knee pad and topstitch it down, I put a piece of paper in to stop the pins going into the bottom layer of fabric. You will need to use the free arm of your sewing maching (take the bit that slides off, off) and manoeuvre it bit by bit.
slip stitch/hand stitch the remaining seam.
Magnoli make the RFT shirt in blue (that’s the one you want, but in khaki or brown colour) you could email to see if they can make it for you.
https://www.magnoliclothiers.com/smuggl ... p-516.html
Kristina’s tutorial for using 2 shirts :
original tutorial, we don’t want visible poppers:
https://studiocreations.com/howto/rebel ... /main.html
I brought 2 basic cotton work shirts and used Kristina’s tutorial, I adjusted the neck slightly so it sat more forward, id pin first, it worked for us as one of brads fitting problems is a slightly forward head. I added tiny poppers at the neck, so the fabric wouldn’t drop and sit nicely.
Shirt we used:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163854414807 ... 2749.l2649
They used popper tape in the originals-
Scarif boots are used in a number of Rogue One costumes: Yavin Operations Officer, Alliance Officers A and B, Signals intelligence Technicians, Rebel Marines and Yavin Operations Troopers.
The boots are made up of 3 main sections. The main boots, the mid portion that covers the shoe and the cuff, all the pieces are connected together. You can see in the image bellow how the mid portion goes up the ankle and the trousers sit over this with the cuff wrapping round. The cuff is only attached to the boot a few cm vertically on the inside.
The boot cuffs are are fastened with Velcro and feature a silver buckle on the left boot and boot flare greeblies on the right.
The buckle is riveted with a loop into the boot cuff, as seen below.
Boot cuff topstitching and back tab can be seen clearly here. 3 rows of heavy topstitch round the boot.
Mid part of the boot opens with a zip.
I used this pattern and tutorial; I adjust the pattern a little by first making it up in scrap fabric –
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zKQU-- ... iPcwR/view
I brought some 1.2 mm nappa leather on ebay. I used a leather needle on my vintage machine- a normal modern machine would struggle. I used 0.7- 0.8mm for my other boots and went slow on my newer janome and it was ok.
We used these boots:
https://m.deichmann.com/GB/en/shop/0000 ... cFA90sZHRI
https://www.whitestuff.com/accessories- ... sea-boots/
Here’s my tutorial for the thinner nappa:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g-tlnb ... mmUH8/view
Ben has put together a really detailed build thread showing how he patterned and modified a pair of Westport boots here:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/ ... sc&start=0
The base boot he used are Rockport Mens Harrison Side Zip Boots in mocha.
Cuffs (for use with ankle boots):
Patricia has some great process pictures of the ones she made in her build thread here:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/ ... hp?t=95502
Pre made boots:
https://www.facebook.com/JDOSprops/post ... 0276723045
The original boot flares are plumbing parts from the UK . You need both parts and you cut one piece and glue them together.
https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/polyplum ... 5mm-x-10mm
https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/polyplum ... 2mm-x-15mm
The buckle is riveted on, I’ve spent hours looking for the original- this is as close as I got:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181396564350 ... 2749.l2649
The Rogue one rank badge has sunken pips and an acrylic middle section.
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/4872970 ... _active_17
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/5854472 ... op-2&sca=1
Michel’s tutorial is here:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/ ... p?t=114520
I struggled with cutting the acrylic circles out as we don’t have a drill press, so I brought ours. I found somewhere that cuts the acrylic to size so I’m going to try to add the middle section next time.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173796222075 ... 2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282545530337 ... 2749.l2649
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283610501629 ... 1438.l2649
https://www.screwfix.com/p/starrett-fch ... FJKWNyfqBk
Attachment we needed to connect the drill piece:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwaukee-he ... aiO0BqcH38
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert- ... 4217&psc=1
I made a template by photocopying the RO VD and blowing up the image with the photocopier so we had a template.
We cut a 6cmx 6cm square from both pieces of foamex, on the 3 mm we used the template to mark the holes and drilled. We sanded that layer.
We then poly piped it to the 2mm piece, when dry we sanded the edges flush and rounded the corners slightly.
We had some little blemishes so I used milliput to fill them, moooore sanding and then primed and painted silver…….you could use rub and buff or very metallic finish, but we went for black/ weathering by dabbing thin layers of acrylic paint paint with a kitchen towel.
The pips were then glued in.
We brought 2 magnets with self-adhesive backing from amazon and stuck those on.
Octaganal belt buckle:
Contact them for details, they also do belts and holsters
Start your Rebel Commander Wips here
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