Drafting methods, basic blocks & fitting adjustments

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Drafting methods, basic blocks & fitting adjustments

Post by tenebris » Sun Jun 07, 2020 5:23 pm

Some of the new films have costumes that it can be quite difficult to find commercial patterns for. Its sometimes less work to start from scratch.

Here is some info on making your own blocks, which is a basic pattern that's close to your body, you can then add design elements to, ie collars, cuffs, seam detail.

Just to note, if your body is hard to fit (like mine) you may need to tweak a block even if its directly made from your measurements.

Article on slopers ( in the UK we generally call them basic blocks)

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11 ... ng-pattern


Ready made blocks

Pattern Lab are a company who make a basic block for you, from your measurements and you print off a PDF pattern. (once its downloaded its yours to print as you want). I have a very hard to fit body and they did a pretty good job of mine. You do it all online, its all computerized so it's instant. I think i paid £8 so pretty reasonable. You can change the ease (how much room is in the garment) and the dart placement. They will be doing trousers and mens blocks soon.

https://patternlab.london/home/

Taking a pattern from an existing garment
https://www.fabric.com/blog/sewing-101- ... -drafting/?


Fitting Shells

Pattern companies make 'shells' or basic block patterns you can further adjust to fit your body.

Vogue 1004

https://www.johnlewis.com/vogue-women%2 ... &gclsrc=ds

Vogue 1003 : trousers


Butterick

B5628
https://www.mccall.com/b5628

Vintage

1000
3003

Mcalls

2718

https://www.mccall.com/m2718


measuring

Measuring yourself
https://www.sewdirect.com/fit-help/

Tutorial from pattern lab
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGN1DcJ ... e=youtu.be



Traditional Pattern cutting/drafting books/Websites:

This website offers FREE basic block making instructions and how to make them into garments.

https://cutupstudio.com/basic-blocks/


https://cutupstudio.com/pattern-cutting/


Winifred Aldrich Metric pattern cutting is the book they still use on a lot of UK degree fashion and pattern cutting courses, it teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements.

Womenswear version

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Pattern ... 859&sr=8-1

Menswear version

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Menswe ... 167&sr=8-1


Designing Patterns :Martin Shoben

teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements. It also includes info on pressing and making up.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cuttin ... 049&sr=8-1


Designing patterns - Hilary Campbell

Drafting from measurements

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Designing-Patt ... 0859504042


Less traditional Block making books

Pattern cutting primer

Making a block from a square grid in S, M, L it has a bit of drafting a bit of draping and design elements.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cuttin ... 769&sr=8-1




This book is good because you can create the basic blocks for making your own patterns by upscale onto grid paper and it also includes some core sewing info.

How to adapt and design sewing patterns

https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Adapt-Desi ... 267&sr=8-1

Image

Image


Create the perfect fit: Joi Mahon

This book is a less traditional approach, she uses a fitting shell pattern. Vogue 1004, but it also teaches you to apply the method to any pattern.

https://www.johnlewis.com/vogue-women%2 ... &gclsrc=ds

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Create-Perfect ... 146&sr=8-1


Fitting books

Fitting and pattern alteration (this book is pretty hardcore and has 3 different methods for fit alteration and alot of fit defects I've not found in other books.)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fitting-Patter ... 1628929723


Perfect fitting: Sarah Veblen

Lots of toile making

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Photo ... 612&sr=8-1

Pattern fitting with confidence:
Nancy Zieman

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Fittin ... 695&sr=8-1

Complete fitting guide:

https://www.palmerpletsch.com/product/p ... e-fitting/



Fitting adjustments can be applied to any pattern, or basic blocks


Fitting adjustments

Pictorial Guide for fitting adjustments, not the most technical, but gives you a good visual idea of fit issues:
https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C228/welcome.html


Shoulder slope:

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2013/02 ... -slope-101

http://kosherpatterns.com/how-to-measur ... loper.html


Shoulder adjustments:

Shoulders:
https://mellysews.com/shoulder-fitting- ... en-sewing/

Sleeve adjustment, to match shoulder adjustment:
https://www.dreamcutsew.com/adapting-sl ... shoulders/


Back:

High round back
http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutori ... djustment/

Broad back:
https://patternandbranch.wordpress.com/ ... djustment/




Dart manipulation:


http://isntthatsew.org/dart-manipulatio ... lJ-nY9X9uk

Complex dart manipulation:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/prin ... nipulation


Moving darts:
https://itch-to-stitch.com/easily-move- ... fbkqMDFP9E

Changing a 1 dart block to a 2 dart block:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/prin ... wO6uRElyC4

Changing a 2 dart block to a 1 dart block:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/prin ... dart-block

Bust:

Full bust adjustment: (you you need more room in the bust area)
http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutori ... rt-bodice/

Full bust adjustment for a dartless block:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?utm_campa ... cNr_B3rWAc

How to alter bust height:
https://blog.megannielsen.com/2012/09/h ... rt-height/

Adding a dart and bust adjustment to a pattern with no dart:
http://curvysewingcollective.com/how-to ... haped-top/

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