Here is some info on making your own blocks, which is a basic pattern that's close to your body, you can then add design elements to, ie collars, cuffs, seam detail.
Just to note, if your body is hard to fit (like mine) you may need to tweak a block even if its directly made from your measurements.
Article on slopers ( in the UK we generally call them basic blocks)
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11 ... ng-pattern
Ready made blocks
Pattern Lab are a company who make a basic block for you, from your measurements and you print off a PDF pattern. (once its downloaded its yours to print as you want). I have a very hard to fit body and they did a pretty good job of mine. You do it all online, its all computerized so it's instant. I think i paid £8 so pretty reasonable. You can change the ease (how much room is in the garment) and the dart placement. They will be doing trousers and mens blocks soon.
https://patternlab.london/home/
Taking a pattern from an existing garment
https://www.fabric.com/blog/sewing-101- ... -drafting/?
Fitting Shells
Pattern companies make 'shells' or basic block patterns you can further adjust to fit your body.
Vogue 1004
https://www.johnlewis.com/vogue-women%2 ... &gclsrc=ds
Vogue 1003 : trousers
Butterick
B5628
https://www.mccall.com/b5628
Vintage
1000
3003
Mcalls
2718
https://www.mccall.com/m2718
measuring
Measuring yourself
https://www.sewdirect.com/fit-help/
Tutorial from pattern lab
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGN1DcJ ... e=youtu.be
Traditional Pattern cutting/drafting books/Websites:
This website offers FREE basic block making instructions and how to make them into garments.
https://cutupstudio.com/basic-blocks/
https://cutupstudio.com/pattern-cutting/
Winifred Aldrich Metric pattern cutting is the book they still use on a lot of UK degree fashion and pattern cutting courses, it teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements.
Womenswear version
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Pattern ... 859&sr=8-1
Menswear version
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Menswe ... 167&sr=8-1
Designing Patterns :Martin Shoben
teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements. It also includes info on pressing and making up.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cuttin ... 049&sr=8-1
Designing patterns - Hilary Campbell
Drafting from measurements
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Designing-Patt ... 0859504042
Less traditional Block making books
Pattern cutting primer
Making a block from a square grid in S, M, L it has a bit of drafting a bit of draping and design elements.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cuttin ... 769&sr=8-1
This book is good because you can create the basic blocks for making your own patterns by upscale onto grid paper and it also includes some core sewing info.
How to adapt and design sewing patterns
https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Adapt-Desi ... 267&sr=8-1
Create the perfect fit: Joi Mahon
This book is a less traditional approach, she uses a fitting shell pattern. Vogue 1004, but it also teaches you to apply the method to any pattern.
https://www.johnlewis.com/vogue-women%2 ... &gclsrc=ds
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Create-Perfect ... 146&sr=8-1
Fitting books
Fitting and pattern alteration (this book is pretty hardcore and has 3 different methods for fit alteration and alot of fit defects I've not found in other books.)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fitting-Patter ... 1628929723
Perfect fitting: Sarah Veblen
Lots of toile making
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Photo ... 612&sr=8-1
Pattern fitting with confidence:
Nancy Zieman
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Fittin ... 695&sr=8-1
Complete fitting guide:
https://www.palmerpletsch.com/product/p ... e-fitting/
Fitting adjustments can be applied to any pattern, or basic blocks
Fitting adjustments
Pictorial Guide for fitting adjustments, not the most technical, but gives you a good visual idea of fit issues:
https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C228/welcome.html
Shoulder slope:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2013/02 ... -slope-101
http://kosherpatterns.com/how-to-measur ... loper.html
Shoulder adjustments:
Shoulders:
https://mellysews.com/shoulder-fitting- ... en-sewing/
Sleeve adjustment, to match shoulder adjustment:
https://www.dreamcutsew.com/adapting-sl ... shoulders/
Back:
High round back
http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutori ... djustment/
Broad back:
https://patternandbranch.wordpress.com/ ... djustment/
Dart manipulation:
http://isntthatsew.org/dart-manipulatio ... lJ-nY9X9uk
Complex dart manipulation:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/prin ... nipulation
Moving darts:
https://itch-to-stitch.com/easily-move- ... fbkqMDFP9E
Changing a 1 dart block to a 2 dart block:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/prin ... wO6uRElyC4
Changing a 2 dart block to a 1 dart block:
https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/prin ... dart-block
Bust:
Full bust adjustment: (you you need more room in the bust area)
http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutori ... rt-bodice/
Full bust adjustment for a dartless block:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?utm_campa ... cNr_B3rWAc
How to alter bust height:
https://blog.megannielsen.com/2012/09/h ... rt-height/
Adding a dart and bust adjustment to a pattern with no dart:
http://curvysewingcollective.com/how-to ... haped-top/